Saturday, September 25, 2010

Trekking through Jabal Akhdar.

In my feeble attempt to get some exercise done and get into the *outdoors* we have planned to a trekking trip to Jabal Akhdar- a gorgeous, popular touristic location of blissful 26 degree weather with cool westbound winds and green pastures. (I am trying not to break out into song here).

I packed a backpack for us complete with RedBull, band aids, caps, water, chips, sunscreen and was crazy excited for a chance to experience a change of scenery in Oman.
As we have recently acquired a kindhearted new friend (who also babysat my fluff ball whilst I was on vacation-bless her), we had an excellent guide and good company in one package.  After gasping at the fact that I have not been to Jabal Akhdar during the 12 years that I have lived in Oman, Nina made it her sole mission to make sure that not only do I go there, but receive the ultimate christening of the trekking route- all 10 km of it.

After leaving Muscat at 10:30 in the morning, we made our way towards Nizwa and some 1 ½ hours later began seeking the “Birkat Al Mouz” road sign pointing us to bear right. Quite suddenly the road began to ascend; steep, rocky, mountains appeared from all directions. The promised police post soon immerged where the Suzuki we drove underwent some serious inspections until the authorities were convinced that it is indeed a four wheel drive.  Charming her way through the post in perfectly pronounced Arabic, Nina soon sped off through sharp turns and blind bends to our destination.

Arriving at a picturesque lay by, Nina proudly informed us that this is where Princess Diana was known to make a stop and enjoy the view. She was absolutely right in doing so because the canyons and the green steps of Jabal Akhdar were breathtaking and righteously refreshing.
A 5 minute drive from Diana-point is the car park from which the trekking route begins. We were immediately stopped by the inhabitants of the village, and asked to cover our shoulders in order to proceed; purely out of respect for the families that live there. I had a decent t-shirt at hand and Nina covered with a scarf and we were quickly on our way through the village. Scattered on a slope, it is a total of about 15 houses; some made out of mud others of brick- most abandoned or used as barns. I kept asking if this was really the trekking route- because to me it felt like trespassing though somebody’s backyard.
The settlement quickly disappeared into rose gardens, scattered pomegranate trees and walnut orchards. Although the route is slightly overgrown with weeds and wild bushes, it is relative easy to follow. We followed a series of steep stone steps down the mountain making our way according to the flags drawn on the walls which are colorfully present every 30 meters or so. Alex made it a point to pick up every “poisonous” plant that Nina pointed out and examine the remains of a helicopter despite the “trespassers will be shot” signs.

Through the trek route 2 more villages emerged as well as gardens of pomegranates, corn, roses and other mastered agricultures. We did not encounter a lot of locals, mostly kids playing in the ruins and the occasional black cat scaring the crap out of us. The occasional falaj on our path made the jagged route somewhat bearable, the cool mountain water was blissful refreshment once we ran out of Redbull.

At the end of the route we found ourselves on an asphalted route where designated cars usually pick up trekkers. Only our car was at the start of the trek route, which meant another hour of walking alongside the road, a military base, numerous wadis and populated areas. I was hopeful that someone might actually stop and offer us a ride- seeing that it was 3 in the afternoon and we were in obvious need of transportation!

Exhausted but damn proud of ourselves we made it to our car, which was 5 km away from the end of the trekking route. Never has a car seat felt so soft and the AC been so refreshing! Gathering our last strength, we drove to Wadi Habib which Nina insisted we must absolutely see! Amidst a parking lot of tightly crammed vehicles and pomegranate stalls, descended a staircase leading straight to the abandoned village of Wadi Habib. On our next trip we promised ourselves we would journey down and explore- but enough heroic accomplishments for one day!

This was definitely a Friday well spent and I am looking forward to new trekking routes and longer weekends!

2 comments:

  1. Well, the signs introduced it as the village of Al Sheraija (no way do I know that by heart, i took a picture of the sign!) :)

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